Many smartphones include periscopic lenses in their cameras to improve the zooming range. A periscope lens has optical zoom qualities that a smartphone camera does not have, enabling 5x and even 10x optical zoom. A periscope lens allows someone to look around a barrier without being seen.

In this article, you will understand the definition of a periscopic lens and everything you need to know about it. Let’s get started.

What is Periscope Lens?

A periscope camera gets its name from the same equipment used in submarines or ships to observe items above the water’s surface and something other than is not within the direct path of sight. A periscope lens is an optical tool that allows people to view obstacles without being seen.

It has typically included reflective mirrors or prisms that refract the light at correct angles, letting individuals perceive what is above or below their real line of sight. Smartphone manufacturers have utilized the same technique to develop periscope modules for cameras to improve zooming range.

How does Periscope Lens work?

A periscope camera functions in the same way that submarine periscopes do. In which the lens would have existed, a mirror system is built. A periscope lens is a combination of two lenses and two 45° angle lenses at both ends of a lengthy tube. This helps to reflect the picture from the initial 45-degree lens across all of the additional lenses between another 45-degree lens positioned on the viewer’s end inside a straight line.

Rather than allowing light to enter the camera straight through the lens and then into the sensor, the periscope system redirects entering light 90 ° through the lens array toward the sensor.

Smartphone with Periscope Lenses

You’d think it’d be hard to create a gadget with a 100x telephoto lens while remaining tiny. However, smartphone manufacturers like Samsung and Huawei have lately introduced telephoto lenses with increased magnification capabilities. So, how does this work?

The mechanism’s periscope is an angled mirror that permits the lens and sensor to be positioned flat all along the smartphone. This allows the lens and sensor to be positioned closer together without the lens projects. As a result, a greater focal length may be achieved with a device that is only a few millimeters thick.

Advantages of Periscope Lens

Their primary benefit is that they enable you to record a faraway item or scenery on a level with such a point-and-shoot camera with no lens motion.

When contrasted to a smartphone with a standard 2X telephoto camera with the lens components installed vertically, the greatest optical zoom range afforded by periscope design is greater.

A phone with a periscope telephoto lens can deliver a hybrid zoom capability of 10X or greater based on tunnel size and lens component layout. A phone with a tiled specific range telephoto lens, on the other hand, will have a lesser optical and hybrid zoom power.

Disadvantages of Periscope Lenses

Although periscopic zoom cameras allow you to zoom in on items considerably closer than digital zoom, they do have certain limits. The most difficult aspect of a periscopic telephoto arrangement is that, as it allows you to visually zoom in on distant things or close in on a tiny item, its focal length — and hence zooming capabilities — are limited.

The lens array cannot move around too much due to the restricted space within the lens arrangement. The motion can only help with focusing and not zooming in or out. As a result, it doesn’t allow you to zoom in and out as easily as a movable zoom lens linked to a point-and-shoot, DSLR, or mirrorless camera.

Because the periscope camera is meant to take up space horizontally inside the phone rather than protruding out from the rear, it may take up a significant amount of room within the phone’s body. This means that to gain higher zoom magnification on the periscope camera, phone makers would have to compromise some components and functionalities.

Telephoto Vs. Periscope Lens

The size of periscope and telephoto cameras differs. A periscope lens has a narrower field of vision and fewer pixels. Its sensor is typically mounted horizontally.

Periscope lenses are also ideal for landscape photographers in terms of optical zooming. They offer several benefits. It is not the same as a standard telephoto lens. It has a higher zooming potential than a telephoto lens. Including sensors can require extra room. The periscope lens is significantly more costly. However, it has more advantages.

Why It Became So Important?

Due to the high optical zoom provided by periscope cameras, smartphone makers are competing to see who can give the finest optical zoom on their smartphone’s camera. There are only so many marketing words that can win the contest to deliver the greatest optical zoom. Many marketing buzzwords, such as “Super Zoom,” “Ultra Zoom,” and “Space Zoom,” have been misused by smartphone manufacturers to advertise their products.

These phrases, however, may not necessarily tell the whole story. In actuality, mounting a periscope camera on a smartphone is too costly. As a result, they may be seen on high-end smartphones. The price is determined by the length of the periscope camera.

Future of Periscope Lens for iPhones

The iPhone 13 Pro can only provide up to 3x zoom lens. The iPhone 14 model includes a 48 MP widescreen sensor, 8K video capture, as well as an upgraded 7-element telephoto lens in the year.

The iPhone 15 Pro Max will be released in 2023, and the iPhone 16 Pro and its variants in 2024. They will have improved zoom capabilities thanks to the inclusion of a periscope lens. Apple’s version will have a 1/3-inch 12 MP f/2.8 sensor with 5-6x optical zoom and sensor-shift image stabilization. These specs are likely to carry over to the iPhone 15 Pro Max and iPhone 16 Pro versions.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that the smartphone camera periscope innovation is still in its early stages, it appears that a growing number of smartphone manufacturers are incorporating it into their popular flagship devices. Maybe this implies it will continue to improve as the smartphone giants compete to have the finest smartphone camera in the industry.

A last piece of advice when dealing with any type of zoom mechanism is to maintain your device as stable as you can. This is important because even with OIS activated, the further you zoom in, the more the camera movement appears. This might result in fuzzy photographs. There are several methods for keeping your phone steady, such as holding it or your arms even against hard objects.

When taking a photograph with a camera, optical zoom is employed to capture a close-up look at the target without practically getting closer.

On the other hand, digital zoom is a feature of camcorders and digital cameras that allows you to crop the entire picture and then digitally enhance the size of the viewfinder of the region you want to zoom in on.

Considering and differentiating these two technologies is so critical. In this post, you will learn everything you need to know about digital vs optical zoom. Let’s get started!

What Is Optical Zoom?

The zoom qualities of cameras are referred to as optical zoom. All digital cameras provide optical zoom, which may be changed by physically rotating the lens. When you change the lens, you are modifying the focal distance of your camera’s sensor, which affects how much of a picture is caught in focus.

Optical lenses, on the other hand, often employ a fixed element, such as a glass or plastic lens filter, and cannot be altered during a picture shoot. Some cameras offer an electrical zoom option that allows you to modify your image after each exposure. However, they are often more expensive than their optical equivalents.

How Does Optical Zoom Work?

The focal length of a camera is changed by physically shifting the lenses. To enlarge the subject matter in question, optical zoom lenses physically stretch. A motor moves the lens in response to the user’s commands. When a particular button is rotated, or a switch is pressed, the subject is either enlarged or shrunk in size.

In a higher-rated optical zoom camera, the user can take a shot of the object from a long range and still receive a crisp, close-up picture. The optical zoom principle is much like the zoom on a non-digital camera. Each optical zoom lens has a range and a changeable focal length.

What Is Digital Zoom?

Many digital cameras and camcorders include a digital camera. Digital zoom can be used to increase the scale of a scene. It can crop the whole image. The image may be cropped to a central region using digital zoom. The digital zoom ratio is nearly identical to the original.

Digital zoom has the property of interpolating the output back up towards the pixel dimension of the original scene, and because the approach requires cropping, the resolution and picture quality is low and lower. After cropping the image, digital zoom enlarges it to its original size. The image quality generated is not exclusively determined by the camera’s megapixel count.

How Does Digital Zoom Work

Digital zoom is a technique for reducing or narrowing an image’s apparent angle of view. It is performed by cropping the image to a central region with the same aspect ratio as the original and then expanding the result back up to the original’s pixel size. This is accomplished electrically, with no adjustments to the camera’s optics.

Enlarging the image affects the original pixel pattern obtained by the camera’s image sensor. As a result, the visual quality suffers. Photographers utilize digital zoom to designate an area of a shot by using built-in software in the camera.

Digital vs Optical Zoom: Resolution

Image Source: LifeHack.org

Optical zooming permits the lens to adjust the prisms therein, which affects how light is transmitted—and hence the picture you’re attempting to capture—when it reaches the camera’s sensors. This enlarges the image before taking a snapshot, allowing you to capture excellent quality from a distance.

Digital zoom does not use optics to get your sensors closer to the image; instead, it just zooms in on the image to expand whatever the topic is. This effectively crops the shot before it is taken, lowering the resolution. If you have a 1080p phone camera, digital zooming can drop the resolution to 480p (or lower) for the end output, with no option to adjust it once the shot is taken.

Digital vs Optical Zoom: Usage

If you want more than a 2x optical zoom lens, you’ll need to plan ahead of time for dragging it about. You will need a camera equipment case, and bags may be pricey. It takes a little time to learn and change the focus on an optical camera lens. Therefore, there is a learning curve.

Digital zooming requires no expertise or understanding of how lenses function. You can zoom in on an image using your camera app, and it’s quite simple to do. If you have your smartphone camera set to auto mode, it will attempt to focus as far as necessary. When in manual mode, you may adjust the focus based on ISO settings.

Digital vs Optical Zoom: Clarity

When you use an optical lens to zoom in, you are not distorting the image; rather, you are improving your focus (This can improve image quality by increasing sharpness, contrast, and white light neutrality).

The clarity suffers as a result of the resolution change. Zooming into an image (digitally) exposes all of the white light and degrades the definition.

Digital vs Optical Zoom: Image Quality

Resolution is related to picture quality, but it also affects the sharpness and how light enters the image. With optical lenses, light is refracted off of the inner optics, which maintains the image crisp.

Because digital zooming does not affect the physical camera, you’re stuck with it if you’re at an awkward angle or the light is annoying. You can only change the image quality by going closer to it or adjusting your viewpoint.

Conclusion

Both optical and digital zoom has multiple benefits and limitations, as you may be aware of by now. Generally, optical zooms do not require electronics, and they are often lighter and smaller than digital zooms. Because they employ electronics to enlarge the image, digital zooms can be slightly bigger.

But what about the cost? Digital zoom cameras are often less expensive than optical zoom cameras. However, this varies depending on your finances and how much you intend to invest in a new camera.

The most crucial thing is to select a camera that meets your requirements. The easiest method to do so is to test out several models in shops and buy one that will increase the quality of your work but isn’t heavy on your pocket as well.

Many modern cameras and lenses include an image stabilization feature, which is intended to eliminate camera shaking. So, how do you maintain the sharpness of the image? Well, you’ve got three possibilities, and these are:

• Increase the shutter speed.
• Use a tripod.
• Turn on image stabilization.

In this article, we will discuss the following topics: What is image stabilization? How image stabilization systems work, and what are the rules of shutter speed.

What is Image Stabilization?

Vibration reduction, vibration correction and optical stabilization are all terms used to describe image stabilization. The basic definition of image stabilization relates to how steady a camera’s optical system is during image capture.

Without image stabilization, the final image will seem hazy if the camera is not steady, especially if you have no experience with photography.

There are several other causes of hazy or blurred images, including poor lighting, the use of long lens lengths, and slow shutter speeds combined with camera motion from a handheld camera.

If you regularly use quick shutter speeds, image stabilization technology is usually unnecessary.

How Do Image Stabilization Systems Work?

In the mid-1990s, camera makers began investigating image stabilization technologies. It has become better with each generation of digital cameras. The stabilization system can be included inside the lens or the camera. It might also be in both.

A system of gyros and microcomputers attached to a floating lens element or sensor is used for image stabilization. Your camera’s gyros detect even the smallest motions. To compensate for it, the information is passed to the microprocessor, which shifts the components in the opposite direction. All of this is happening behind the scenes without your knowledge.

The menu system allows you to regulate camera-body image stabilization devices. Image stabilization lenses may contain a switch to toggle them on and off.

Rules of Shutter Speed

To begin, while shooting handheld, you should operate a shutter speed that is at least 1/the length of your lens to eliminate camera movement. So, if you are using a 50 mm lens, the shutter speed should be 1/50. The reciprocal rule states that a 200mm lens requires a minimum shutter speed of 1/200, a 40mm lens requires a minimum shutter speed of 1/400, and so on.

Secondly, camera shaking and motion blur are not the same things. The shaking of the photographer or camcorder causes the camera to shake. Motion blur occurs when the subject moves too quickly for the shutter speed. These will cause blur or softness in your photographs, but they are not the same problem.

What Is Digital Image Stabilization?

Some cameras employ digital image stabilization, sometimes known as electronic image stabilization, mainly for video. Digital image stabilization detects movement in each frame and moves it pixel by pixel to generate a steady video.

This method can eliminate camera shaking and produce steadier footage. Post-processing software, such as Adobe Premiere Pro’s Warp Stabilizer, can also be used to stabilize digital images.

One downside of this approach is that it necessitates cropping since pixels beyond the frame must be utilized as a buffer and must be clipped out to allow for stabilization. In general, the more shaking there is in the camera, the more cropping there is.

What is Optical Image Stabilization (OIS)

Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) is a technique used in cameras and phones that helps balance the photo-taking parts of your camera or phone to reduce or eliminate image’ shake.’ This allows you to capture sharper photos with your smartphone even while it’s in your hand.

OIS is especially useful when taking photos at night or in low-light situations because it stabilizes your camera for longer, allowing it to take in light when used in a darkened setting. This results in clearer and more pleasing photos.

Lens-Based Stabilization

Lens-based stabilization employs a floating lens element that is electronically controlled and adjusted in the opposite direction of any camera shake detected. Smoother performance when employing longer focal length lenses is one of the benefits of in-lens image stabilization.

The disadvantage of lens-based image stabilization is that it is not available as an option for all lenses and adds to the lens’s cost. However, if you don’t require IS, you may be able to get a non-IS version of the lens or something comparable.

In-Camera vs Lens Stabilization

Nikon and Canon have always preferred lens-based stabilization technologies. Each lens’ image stabilization mechanism is tuned somewhat differently. Lens manufacturers may provide both image stabilization and non-image stabilization lenses.

Lens stabilization is, as you can expect, more costly. Sometimes significantly more costly. When you buy a lens, you also buy the stabilization system. With in-camera picture stabilization, you just need to purchase the system once. It is compatible with all of your lenses.

When to Turn Image Stabilization Off

Image stabilization sounds wonderful. It will assist you in capturing crisper photographs at slower shutter speeds. However, it is not always the best setting to utilize. It is sometimes preferable to locate the off switch.

• If you intend to move the camera, disable the stabilization option. When you pan your camera, you are following a moving subject. This maintains the object in focus while blurring the backdrop. This is countered by picture stabilization.
• Your tripod is the ultimate picture stabilization device. When using a tripod, turn off picture stabilization. This may appear to be paradoxical. If your camera is already stabilized by a tripod, you will anticipate the image stabilization feature to be inactive.

Conclusion

Image stabilization refers to how steady a camera’s optical system is during capture. Images will seem fuzzy and degrade overall image quality if the system is not steady.

Image quality can be improved by utilizing a tripod, an optical stabilizer, or sensor-shift optical image stabilization. It is still necessary to examine the picture stabilization capabilities of the camera.

A Well-Balanced Mirrorless Camera

Canon EOS R is a high-quality camera that brings a combination of excellent performance and multiple features that result in one of the best mirrorless cameras available. With this device, you are getting a high-quality sensor, great AF, and more importantly, excellent image quality in both still images and 4K and Full HD video footage. In other words, you get a complete product that does a serious job.

Specifications:

Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, NFC, and USB3.1
Sensor type: 30.3 MP Dual Pixel CMOS AF sensor
Image Processor: DIGIC 8
ISO: 100 – 40000
AF points: 5,655 Dual Pixel AF positions
Burst shooting: 8fps
Screen type: 801 mm Clear View LCD II
View mode: EVF with 3.69 million dots
Battery type: LP-E6N
Battery life: 370 shots
Weight: 580 grams
Dimensions: Width 136 mm, Depth 84 mm, Height 98 mm

Features

When talking about the Canon EOS R features, it should be noted that this is no play toy, but a highly capable camera that brings a long list of functions, options, and extras that make it a highly competitive product.

To begin with, there is the 30.3 MP Dual Pixel CMOS AF sensor, with 5655 manually selectable AF points, and the DIGIC 8 image processor that positions the Canon EOS R at the same level as the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV. Then, there is the built-in low-pass filter, 30fps 4K video footage (unfortunately cropped), 8fps burst shooting, as well as the great connectivity that includes Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, NFC, and USB3.1 connection.

In addition, Canon EOS R is compatible with both Windows and Mac Operating Systems; it supports ISO from 100 to 40000 and offers plenty of movie modes, picture styles, and others allowing you to find the perfect setup without a huge effort.

Also, Canon EOS R is fitted with a solid LP-E6N battery that should allow you for around 370 shots, has a 3.69 million dots EVF and offers multiple handy options, such as Face Detection and Tracking, HDR, Multiple exposures, RAW image processing, etc. These features do make the difference and allow this device to fight the best digital cameras out there.

Usage

The usage of the Canon EOS R is straightforward and provides a similar experience as the other Canon DSLR or EOS M cameras. There is a decent level of customization, while the interface itself is pretty intuitive and easy to use.

One of the 38 functions can be assigned to the majority of the buttons, while the existence of the multi-function bar provides additional functionality and presents one of the most distinctive Canon EOS R features; however, it may not be the best fit for many.

Although the front dial positioning is pretty similar to the Canon DSLRs setup, the dial itself may be hard to reach for many, while the ergonomics of the other buttons, as well as the rear dial, are thankfully much better, allowing smooth use.

Captured images provide a good dynamic range, with accurate colors, while the low-light performance is on par with the best cameras of the class.

Design

The overall build quality of the Canon EOS R is pretty good, and it incorporates both dust and drip resistance, while the body itself presents a combination of alloy body, and polycarbonate and fiberglass parts that are the key reason for this camera’s premium looks.

As mentioned earlier, Canon EOS R offers a similar button setup as the recent Canon DSLRs, with the addition of the M-Fn Bar on the rear end of the camera, and has a weight of only 580 grams, which makes it highly portable and suits its smaller build perfectly.

Canon EOS R is also fitted with a USB C socket for battery charging and has one SD memory card slot that supports the UHS-II protocol. On its back, there is also an 801 mm Clear View LCD II touch screen, while above it, there are the 3.69 million dots EVF, with 0.71x magnification, allowing for easy eye-level viewing.

Good

Canon EOS R has so much to offer. It offers a decent level of customization; it is fitted with an excellent 30MP sensor and it provides the impressive 5655 focus positions. Both images and captured videos are of the finest quality, while the excellent connectivity provides additional options and makes this camera a highly versatile one.

In addition, Canon EOS R is also equipped with a high-quality viewfinder and an interesting M-Fn Bar. Also, there is the DIGIC 8 processor that guarantees premium performance and allows for the C-RAW compressed Raw format, while the interface is pretty smooth and intuitive, offering ease of use.

Canon EOS R offers a comfortable grip; it has a very precise AF and provides great flexibility that rightfully positions it neck and neck with the best cameras available.

Bad

Unfortunately, all this praise doesn’t mean that the Canon EOS R has no flaws. In the first place, there is no in-body stabilization and its 4K videos are cropped, which certainly isn’t the perfect option. Additionally, there is only a single SD card slot, while the dynamic range and noise performance, although good, are still a bit behind the competition.

In addition, Canon EOS R battery life requires improvements, along with the burst shooting, while the Dual Pixel AF shows signs of unreliability during video capturing. In other words, there is still room for improvement.

Final Thoughts

All in all, Canon EOS R is a mirrorless camera that has a lot to offer, among others, a reasonable price that positions it perfectly between the cheaper Canon EOS RP and the more refined Canon EOS R5, which is simply a supreme device.

In other words, if you are after one of the best mirrorless cameras out there that will give you an excellent level of performance, yet won’t go too deep into your pocket, Canon EOS R is the perfect device and the camera that will fulfill your every expectation, and much more.

Hence, the D610 is basically the D600 as it should have been in the beginning. Mind you, the D600 had a life span of just 13 months before the D610 appeared and stole its glory, and this usually happens with consumer-level (entry-level) DLSRs. In this particular case though, it was the negative reviews and negative press that did it.

So, the D610 was revealed to the general public on October 8, 2013, and yes, it was a real upgrade worth the money back in the day, which means today it makes for the deal of the century with inflation, depreciation and all that.

What it Is

Nikon did a couple of upgrades to the original D600, but take a load of this: back in the day, in 2013 that is, the D610’s MSRP price was $1999. That’s 100 bucks less than what was asked for the D610, as Nikon tried to stay competitive (cough, Canon EOS 6D), but what’s even more important, that’s almost 3x the price (sans inflation) of what a D610 retails for nowadays (new).

So, basically, the D610 is a huge bargain if you can find one in stock, and here are the differences between D600 and this baby: first, you get a new shutter mechanism, which was the main issue on the D600.

Nikon replaced it with a completely different shutter, which is also better in terms of frame rate (faster). This brings us to upgrade number two: the D610 has a faster frame rate of 6 FPS. Then, there’s a new and improved automatic white balance via firmware most probably, and finally, you get a new feature: quiet continuous shooting mode that works at 3 frames per second.

Other than that, the D610 shares basically the same exact components as the D600 (reviewed previously if memory serves), and that includes the 24.3 megapixels sensor, with a native ISO range of 100-6400. This brings us to the next cool thing: tech specs!

Main Specs

• Sensor: 24.3 MP FX
• Sensor Size: 35.9 x 24mm
• Resolution: 6016 x 4016
• DX Resolution: 3936 x 2624
• Native ISO Sensitivity: 100-6,400
• Boost Low ISO Sensitivity: 50
• Boost High ISO Sensitivity: 12,800-25,600
• Processor: EXPEED 3
• Metering System: 3D Color Matrix Meter II with face recognition
• Dust Reduction: Yes
• Weather Sealing/Protection: Yes
• Body Build: Magnesium Alloy
• White Balance: Updated White Balance System
• Shutter: Up to 1/4000 and 30 sec exposure
• Shutter Durability: 150,000 cycles
• Storage: 2x SD slots
• Viewfinder Coverage: 100%
• Speed: 6 FPS
• Exposure Meter: 2016 pixel RGB sensor
• Built-in Flash: Yes, with Commander Mode, full CLS compatibility
• Autofocus System: MultiCAM 4800FX AF with 39 focus points and 9 cross-type sensors
• LCD Screen: 3.2 inch diagonal with 921,000 dots
• Movie Modes: Full 1080p HD @ 30 fps max
• Movie Exposure Control: Full
• Movie Recording Limit: 20 minutes @ 30p, 30 minutes @ 24p
• Movie Output: MOV, Compressed and Uncompressed
• In-Camera HDR Capability: Yes
• Battery Life: 900 shots
• USB Standard: 2.0
• Weight: 760g (body only), 850g (with battery and memory card)

For full details, click here. By the way, if you want to get the most out of your DSLR, check out this article about the best monopods.

Features

As we already told you, the D610 harbors the exact same 24.3 million pixel FX format CMOS sensor you will find in the D600, paired with the EXPEED 3 processing engine, which is the main “culprit” behind the continuous shooting speed of 6fps ( drops to 3 FPS when Continuous Quiet mode is ON).

We know, this is not impressive tech in 2021, but back in 2013, it made all photo-shoot chicks wet as Niagara. On top of that, you can set the sensitivity in the native range with expansion settings taking this to ISO 50-25600 (from ISO 100-6400).

You’ll also get the same 2,016 RGB sensor, working delivers intel to the Automatic Scene Recognition system, which is further used by the Metering and White balance systems to help get correct color and exposure, plus the exact same Multi-CAM 4800 autofocus module with 39-points (9 cross-type) as is in the D600.

The autofocus system has 39 AF points (pretty advanced back then) and can operate at effective maximum apertures slower than f/5.6 and faster than f/8; moreover, the center 7 are capable of operating at f/8, which means using telephoto and teleconverter combos will produce an effective maximum aperture of f/8.

You also get 4 live view AF area modes: Wide-area AF, Face-priority AF, Subject-Tracking AF and Normal-area AF. As expected, you have in-camera HDR (high dynamic range) mode (JPEG-only option), and full HD video capability, at 25 or 24p and at 1280×720 at 60, 50, 30 or 25p.

Build and Handling

The Nikon D610 doesn’t feature the high-end monocoque construction of the D5300, but it still has a part-magnesium alloy body (on the top and the rear of the camera), which makes it feel and look great (and solid). Besides being tough as nails, the D610 is weather-sealed, i.e. it can survive humid and dusty environments without sustaining damage. In a $2000 piece of equipment back then, this was maybe the coolest feature to have.

The camera also comes with a rubber-coated chunky finger-grip on the front, and the familiar thumb-ridge on the back, for a secure and comfortable hold. The camera body is relatively small in size and compact, hence you’ll definitely have a good time together, regardless of the size of your hands. I mean grip, don’t think dirty!

Handling-wise, the Nikon D610 is excellent, and the control layout on the back is pretty similar to the D7100, as in you’ll find 5 buttons on the left of the LCD, the same Live View and Info buttons, plus a smaller multi-selector button with a lock. There are also 2 memory card slots configurable in Overflow, Backup and RAW/JPEG.

Performance

Just like its D600 sibling, the D610 works great (even if it’s not the best Nikon camera), with well-controlled noise, well-exposed images and good colors. At ISO 3200, there’s almost zero speckling visible if you look at the pics on a computer screen, and even at ISO 25600 sensitivity setting, the chroma noise is not excessive, nor the luminance noise intrusive. Detail is maintained pretty well across the specter, and there’s no smearing to hide noise.

Nikon also says that the D610 performs better in artificial light due to its revamped automatic white balance system, while the AF system works quietly and accurately in a wide range of conditions, even in low light conditions, which may trouble lesser cameras.

Tracking moving objects and the 3D-tracking mode are also well implemented and work great in real life scenarios, and the Matrix metering system is very good.

Verdict

The highlights of the D610 include dual slots for 2 memory cards, 24mp full-frame FX sensor ( you could blow these pics up to billboard size ), 100% viewfinder coverage optical viewfinder, lightweight for a well-built/weather-sealed semi-pro camera, a nice 3.2″LCD, great video capability1080/30p or 24p as well as 720/60,50&30p for slow-motion or HD mpeg 4 av ch, 6 frames per second continuous, and Nikon’s great high ISO performance ISO 100 to 25,600.

Basically, the D610 is an old high-end DSLR that now retails at peanut prices, so it would make for an awesome addition to your photo paraphernalia as the first step into full-frame photography for Nikon lovers.

So, to begin with, this is old-tech by any other definition, yet it still makes for a great everyday DSLR for beginners and casual photographers. As in, if you’re looking for an affordable, high quality general purpose DSLR, the D5300 offers a lot of bang for the proverbial buck asked, things like relatively fast performance, excellent photo quality and impressive features for peanuts money, even if it’s pretty far from being the best Nikon camera out there.

Key features:

• 24MP DX-format CMOS sensor with no optical low-pass filter
• 39-point AF system with 3D tracking and 3D matrix metering II
• 5 frames per second continuous shooting
• ISO 100 – 12800 (Expandable to 25600)
• 3.2 Vari-angle LCD with 1,037,000 dots
• 1080 (60p, 30p, 24p) and 720 (60p, 50p) HD video (H.264/MPEG-4)
• Built-in Wi-Fi (for sharing and remote camera control) and GPS
• Raw and Raw+ JPG shooting
• SD/SDHC/SDXC memory

Quick Specs:

• Type: Compact SLR
• Weight: 480 g
• Resolution: 24 MP
• Sensor size: APS-C (23.5 x 15.6 mm)
• ISO: Auto, 100 – 12800 (25600 with boost)
• LCD Screen: Fully articulated
• Touchscreen: None
• Weather sealed: No

What is it?

The Nikon D5300 makes for an “old-school” (literally) 24 Megapixels vari-angle screen Wi-Fi equipped DSLR. This is definitely not the best DSLR camera out there, as it was designed as an entry-level from its inception, though you still get Wi-Fi connectivity for facile file transfers, and a pretty good 39-point Auto Focus system.

This affordable DSLR is proof of concept that you can still “teach old dogs new tricks”, as in if you’re shopping for an affordable no-nonsense camera with a simple control layout in order to take your photography more seriously, this is it, cut and dried.

Features

Even if the D5300 is not the best digital camera money can buy, it delivers impressive stills for a DSLR in its class. Fast performance, excellent photo quality and a more than decent feature set are its main attributes.

The D5300 uses a sensor sans OLPF (optical low-pass filter, before you ask, or anti-aliasing filter), and features an improved body design, with a tad bigger viewfinder, as well as a large, higher-res LCD display compared to its predecessor, though that doesn’t mean much in terms of 2014 LCD technology.

Moreover, the DSLR has GPS/Wi-Fi capabilities, and comes with a built-in stereo microphone; on top of that, you get Nikon’s proprietary Expeed 4 image processor, and that translates into better battery life, 1080/60p video, a couple of cool camera effects, HDR painting, toy camera and an extra stop of ISO sensitivity.

Let’s talk a little shop for tech geeks with an interest in ancient DLSRs: the D5300 comes with a 24.2 MP APS-C CMOS sensor, a 3.2-inch vari-angle screen, 1,037,000 dots (not impressive, we know), 1080p video capture, 9 Creative Effects modes, 16 scene modes, and the usual collection of Picture Control options.

The good news is that you can use the Picture Control modes whether you’re shooting JPEG or RAW images, and you have access to the usual stuff: Standard, Neutral Vivia, Monochrome, Portrait and Landscape. You can obviously adjust sharpening, contrast, saturation, brightness and hue of the color options to match one’s particular taste.

The Wi-Fi module allows you to transfer images wirelessly to a tablet or smartphone via a free app, Nikon’s free Wireless Mobile Utility respectively. From there, you can upload your “work” on Facebook, Instagram, what have you, and the same app can also trigger the shutter remotely.

The GPS module can be used for tagging images with the longitude, latitude and altitude of the shooting location, and, on top of that, you can even create travel maps via Nikon’s ViewNX 2 software, and display the respective maps on Nikon Image Space, or any other social media platform that supports GPS (Flickr comes to mind).

The D5300 also sports a new battery, the EN-EL14a respectively, rated at 600-shot life under CIPA testing conditions. The D-Lighting mode has been expanded, and comes with a new option in Retouch mode – Portrait Subject mode, and it brightens skin tones in portrait image.

Build and handling

The D5300 looks and feels as tough as coffin nails, boasting a full polycarbonate construction, and weighing 480 grams. Truth be told, this is the first DSRL in Nikon’s line up to feature a monocoque construction, just like F1 cars, which means the camera is made from a single piece of polycarbonate.

The camera is particularly tough due to this peculiar design, as well as due to Nikon’s choice of using Teijin’s Sereebo CFRTP (carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic) for its construction. The navigation control is well implemented, and everything feels solid enough and well made in your hand, no complaints here. Design-wise, the D5300 looks very much alike as the D5200, though is quieter in operation and has a more positive feel in the control dial.

Most adjustments are made via on-screen controls, as the camera has relatively few buttons, but that translates into slower settings adjustments for beginners. Speaking of adjustment, there are 14 features available, and most of them are fairly intuitive, i.e. stuff that you may want to access on a daily basis, like focus mode, picture control, metering mode, AF-area mode etc.

Autofocus

• 39-point AF, 9 cross-type AF points
• 39 or 11 AF points can be selected
• 3D-tracking AF

To make a long story short, this is a dated AF system, but nonetheless, it’s fast and accurate in daylight conditions. Things will change in lower light conditions, as the AF will slow down noticeably and you will encounter moments of indecision. If you want to speed things up, you can switch to a larger maximum aperture/better quality lens.

Performance

• 5fps burst shooting
• Clear and bright display
• 600 shot battery life

For its class (and for the money asked we may add), the D5300 does a great job in most regards, including image quality, which is excellent. The DSLR produces sharp photos with good color reproduction, and more than decent JPEG images in low light.

Due to the fact that the D5300’s sensor doesn’t have an antialiasing filter, the stills retain excellent sharpness, and JPEG’s look nice and clean up through ISO 800, and they’re still very good at ISO 1600, which is great news for amateur photographers. You will notice a bit of detail degradation at ISO 3200, yet even ISO 6400 shots are quite workable so to speak, even if you print them on 13×19.

Image quality

ISO100-12,800, expandable to 100-25,600
Creative Effect modes
No low-pass filter

The camera’s default settings are quite good in terms of balancing accuracy and pop, and video recording is sufficient for personal use. The automatic white balance works good in a range of lighting conditions, and even delivers natural looking, atmospheric images in artificial light.

The vari-angle screen makes the camera highly enjoyable on Live View mode, and the 3.2-inch 1,037,000-dot screen is particularly useful when using the enlarged view to focus manually.

Bottom line, the Nikon D5300 will give you a good run for the money, and it will not disappoint you a bit as long as you’re not shooting fast action, or looking for 4K videos.

A quick word of advice for our readers: if you’re not sure about which is the best Canon camera for your money, just go and check out our comprehensive article on the issue. Now, getting back to our topic, the Rebel T7 is known as the EOS 1500D in Australia and the EOS 2000D in the UK, and it makes for Canon’s triumphal march into the highly competitive entry-level DSLR niche.

As we already told you if you were paying attention, the T7 replaces the Rebel T6, and offers an interesting mélange of decent features and build quality at a reasonable price. Currently, this modest DSLR retails for under $500 and has an incredible ratio of 5-star reviews, hence today’s Canon Eos Rebel T7 review.

What it is

The Rebel T7 is a low-priced entry-level DSLR, which is significantly cheaper than most bridge cameras and compacts. Basically, the T7 is a great choice if this is your first DSLR and you’re not sure if it’s worth spending thousands of dollars on professional gear.

As in, this is the type of camera that traditionally introduces new users to a certain brand, in this case Canon, and the respective brand hopes that it will be the one the user sticks with as they grow as photographers and expand their knowledge.

In this regard, the T7 has a lot to prove to first-time users, and tries to win the hearts and minds of conscious buyers that try to find the sweet spot between affordability and features.

Features

To begin with, we must congratulate Canon for finally slapping a modern 24 megapixels image sensor on its most affordable DSLR. Even if megapixels are not everything, this is good news, especially since the T7 has only seen minor improvements over the previous generation.

Truth be told, the only significant upgrade over the T6 is the sensor, yet this is not even the latest-gen image sensor, but an older variant. Hence the low price ladies and gents.

Speaking of old technology, the T7 also comes loaded with the DIGIC 4+ image processor, even if Canon is now at its 8th iteration of the DIGIC image processor, the company’s proprietary technology. Needless to say, the DIGIC 4+ was looking pretty dated back in 2018, when the Rebel T7 was first introduced, not to mention the current year.

The T7 arrives with an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens (don’t forget to read our article about how to clean camera lens) and features ISO100-6,400 (native sensitivity), expandable up to 12,800. With regard to the autofocus system, there are no great news here either: you won’t get Canon’s excellent Dual Pixel CMOS AF system for Live View focusing, as you’ll have to live with the relatively modest 9-point AF thing, and a “medieval” 3.0-inch display that features 920k-dot pixel count and lacks touchscreen capabilities.

The Rebel T7 also comes with a 95 percent-coverage optical viewfinder, which is “business as usual” with entry-level cameras; as in, not great, not terrible. Connectivity-wise, this cheap Canon stands pretty featuring both Wi-Fi and NFC, yet, surprisingly enough, the camera lacks a Bluetooth Low Energy module.

Another omission on Canon’s part is 4K video capture; however, the T7 offers Full HD 1080p video recording with 30, 25 and 24fps frame rates available, which is not bad for an entry-level DSLR.

Build and handling

We already explained how the internal changes in the T7 are minimal, and here’s the bummer: the same goes for the “shell”, as in there’s not much to report on the outside either. As expected from an entry-level DLSR, the Rebel T7 has a solid yet plasticky overall feel, logical button placement and an ergonomic design.

The bad news is that you won’t get Canon’s new graphical interface. Speaking of minimal outside changes, except from the badges, the T7 looks exactly the same as the older T6, including finishes and button placement.

You will definitely recognize (and appreciate if you are honest) the chunky front grip and rear thumb rest, as well as the textured coating. Even if the camera doesn’t have that premium vibe as its more expensive siblings, everything is easy to understand/navigate, and the logical button placement allows you to quickly access and adjust commonly used settings, even if this is your first serious toy.

Autofocus

We already told you that the Rebel T7 is a low-tech entry-level DSLR built for low-budget consumers, hence the dated 9-point autofocus system, that feels (and is) dated. The AF points are clustered in the center of the frame, hence you must expect to re-frame your subjects when off-center.

Performance-wise, the camera does a solid job if you’re not expecting miracles, as in the single cross-type sensor located at the center of the diamond pattern is more than enough for day-to-day shooting. However, we must tell you that the AF system struggles a bit in low lighting conditions. Also, due to its dated AF system, focusing speeds in LiveView mode are painfully slow.

Overall performance

The T7 is, unfortunately, one of the slowest DSLRs out there, even if burst shooting has never been a superpower of entry-level DSLRS. Even so, the Rebel T7’s 3fps continuous shooting is, let’s say, sub-par, hence if you’re a shoot action hero, move along, this is not the droid you are looking for.

Also, the rear screen in the T7 has 4:3 aspect ratio, while the sensor has 3:2 format, which means that when using the camera’s Live View mode or reviewing images you can’t take advantage of all the screen real estate.

Canon’s old-school 63-zone dual-layer metering sensor with Evaluative, Partial, Centre-weighted and Spot metering options does a solid job in most cases, and the same goes for the white system balance. Battery life is also solid, though not the best in class, standing at 500-shot CIPA rating and 240 shots when using Live View.

Image quality

Here is some good news, finally: detail rendition in the T7 is vastly improved over the older T6 due to the upgraded 24.1 MP sensor, which is a huge improvement over the older-gen. The T7 delivers solid noise handling performance with good levels of image detail, with the DSLR producing adequate ISO performance.

Dynamic range is good, although not class-leading. Keep in mind that if you shoot in Raw, the T7 produces crisp images without too much grain through ISO 3200, but at ISO 6400, detail holds up well, but the grain is stronger.

Video quality is pretty good too, but then again, nobody is going to use the T7 and expect to get pro results; while we’re at it, we must mention that the AF system does not function when the camera is rolling, but you can set focus before you start recording a clip. As in, if you want to record video, there are much better options out there.

Bottom line: if you’re a novice, the Canon Rebel T7 is decent starter camera for an entry-level DSLR.

Main Features

• 16MP – 1/2.3-inch BSI-CMOS Sensor
• ISO 80 – 3200
• 23-900 mm F3.0-6.5 Zoom Lens
• Optical Image Stabilization
• 3″ Tilting Screen
• 7.4 fps continuous shooting
• Full HD – 1920 x 1080 video
• Built-in Wireless
• 541g. 114 x 78 x 95 mm

Overview

So, even if this camera was first introduced back in February 2016, which means is 5 years old, it still makes for a great asset if you’re an amateur photographer looking for affordable yet competent gear. Speaking of competent gear, the Nikon Coolpix B500 makes for a 16 megapixel small- sensor Superzoom camera with a 1/2.3-inch BSI CMOS sensor, built-in OIS (optical image stabilization), a tilting display and, most importantly, 23-900 mm F3.0-6.5 lens (don’t forget to keep your lens clean, alright kids?).

If you’re not sure about “science”, go read this article about the importance of megapixels in a camera and thank us later. Moving along with the Nikon Coolpix B500 review, this is a bridge camera, featuring a 16 MP sensor paired with 40x optical zoom, plus digital zoom of up to 80x.

There are plenty of shooting modes, but since we’re talking about “amateur-territory”, the B500 cannot shoot in raw format, and there’s no manual control. As in, everything’s automatic, just point, shoot and you’ll do just fine.

However, since the intended target audience of the B500 is beginners, this is hardly a “deal-breaker” in our view. So, if you’re an enthusiast shopping for your first camera, or just a travel/backup one, this is as good as it gets, and it will not cost a fortune.

Even if this is not the best Nikon camera, it features the company’s proprietary SnapBridge technology, which means that the B500 stays connected to your smartphone via Bluetooth at all times, and can “live-stream” (so to speak) pictures across to social media in real-time.

Other features worth mentioning include the 3.0’’ tilting display with 921k-dot resolution, full HD 1080p video recording (it’s a 2016 model, okay?), and Wi-Fi connectivity built-in.

Ease of use

To begin with the obvious, the B500 is a mid-sized snapper, not too small or too large, weighing 541 g (1.19 lb / 19.08 oz) and measuring 114 x 78 x 95 mm (4.49 x 3.07 x 3.74″). What’s really important is the chunky grip that protrudes relatively far from the camera’s relatively compact body, and needless to say, it makes the B500 feel secure in the hand and easy to “manipulate”, even at awkward angles. Speaking of angles, you will definitely appreciate the tilting screen which goes both up and down.

The grip has a nice texture which makes it feel high-quality, while the rest of the camera is, let’s say plain. Given the fact that the B500 is relatively lightweight, you can use it with one hand even if you’re a girl, and the mode dial that switches between shooting modes ads to ergonomics in a big way.

Even if there’s no manual mode, you have a ton of scene/ shooting options, including some specifically designed to make the most of its long zoom. We must mention something rather unusual about the B500: it uses 4 AA batteries, unlike others with proprietary rechargeable batteries, and that’s pretty good in our view, especially if you travel a lot and finding a power outlet may be difficult.

The zoom has 2 rocker switches, and the top of the camera harbors a dial for switching between the various shooting modes, which include fully automatic, scene, creative, movie mode and more.

The zoom rocker switches from wide-angle to telephoto, and on the side of the lens you’ll find another switch for zooming in and out. The rear panel control layout is pretty much “business as usual”, with the 4-way controller that is used to jump through the menus and for 1 touch access to flash, macro mode, exposure compensation and self-timer.

As we already told you, the double-hinged screen is well designed, as in it can be flipped up or down; the display is one of the best we’ve seen in this price range on a superzoom, and it’s also perfectly legible in sunlight, which is a big plus for nature aficionados.

On the right side of the B500 you’ll find a soft flap that protects the HDMI/AV/USB ports, and there’s also a DC socket that can be used to power the camera from the mains via an AC adapter.

Autonomy

The 4 AA alkaline batteries included in the retail box will give you 600 shots autonomy, but you can upgrade to rechargeable batteries of larger capacity for extended use. High-quality rechargeable NiMH batteries will provide 750 shots, while Lithium AA batteries (more expensive) are good for up to 1240 shots.

The main advantage of AA batteries is that they’re easy to replace, you can get spares while on the road, and they are cheap compared to proprietary Li-Ion batteries. However, they add to the weight of the camera, so yeah, there’s always a caveat.

Lens and Stabilization

As we already told you, the Nikon COOLPIX B500 offers 40x optical zoom range, that extends from super wide 22.5mm (in 35mm terms) to 900mm at the telephoto end. That’s pretty good for an under $400 camera, and makes the B500 an extremely versatile tool that allows you to pick the optimal focal length in virtually any scenario, ranging from group photos/interiors to wildlife and sports.

Truth be told, in the current year there are many superzoom cameras available that offer longer ranges, but that’s another story. The lens’ maximum aperture is f3 at the wide-angle end of the zoom range, and close to f6.5 when fully ranged, and again, that’s pretty good specs all things considered (especially price).

Another good metric is the ISO sensitivity range, which extends to 6400 ISO, plus the optical stabilization, which means the lens elements are shifted to compensate for camera movement. The technology is called Photo VR and you can enable optical stabilization from the Setup menu (it’s an on/off thing).

Movie Modes

The B500’s bet movie mode is 1080 / 25p / 30p HD mode, followed by 1080 / 50i / 60i, then 720 / 25p / 30p and finally 480 / 25p / 30p. Exposure control for movies is limited, or, to be more precise, there isn’t any except from exposure compensation.

Speed

This budget Nikon is quick enough for most people at shooting and switching on, and focus speeds are okay too when not using too much zoom and/or shooting towards the wide-angle end of the lens. If you go for full optical zoom, the B500 will take longer to focus. We must tell you that continuous shooting is quite impressive, as the B500 can shoot at 9 frames per second for 7 shots.

Shooting Experience and Conclusion

It’s very probable that you’ll use the B500 in Auto-mode at all times, hence shooting experience will always be buttery smooth. However, as we already told you, there are quite a few “manual” modes that are guaranteed to improve your experience, that provided you’re ready to tinker with the settings a little bit.

Bottom line, the B500 is great if you’re looking for a basic camera to get the job done. There are no advanced modes, and you cannot alter shutter speed, aperture or shoot in RAW format. Moreover, the B500 offers a lot of fun modes, the likes of Short Movie show and Creative mode, so you’ll definitely not become bored if you’re attending a party or whatever.

For best image quality, you should use the camera in bright light.

Why Clean Camera Lens?

Camera lenses are prone to get dirty in smartphones, but also in DSLRs, especially if you have kids with sticky fingers. Actually, lenses can get so dirty that you’ll eventually have to clean them in order to be able to take a decent pic. Moreover, it’s equally important to be able to remove dust particles from the rear element of your lens.

It must be noted that you must be extra careful when cleaning your lens, in order to avoid damage (scratching mostly), and today’s article is aimed at making sure you’re actually going to improve your camera’s condition, not do more damage than good.

How to Clean Camera Lens Quick Facts

Before getting into the meat of the problem, let’s first establish a few crucial facts: dirty optics, as in dirty lenses, will definitely impair image quality.

Also, there is a proper way and an improper (as in wrong) way to clean both lenses and filter optics (the latter are equally important by the way).

Finally, since we live in the day and age of readily available information courtesy of the “interwebz”, you’ll find a ton of articles on how to clean camera lens, but truth be told, some of the information out there is pure wrong and/or conflicting.

Use a UV or Skylight filter

Here’s the first thing to remember if you’re using professional cameras for your photographic endeavors, expensive gear like a DSLR or a mirrorless camera: consider investing in a high-quality UV or skylight filter. Why, you asked? The answer is pretty simple: on top of cutting out UV light, if you keep the filter attached to your lens, it will prevent it from getting dirty or scratched.

Moreover, a UV filter can protect the lens from cracking/breakage in case you drop your camera accidentally, and, with regard to our today’s topic, when it comes to cleaning, all you have to do is to clean the UV filter instead of the actual lens. It’s a win-win situation, see?

Just remember that not all UV filters are created equal, as in there are low-quality (cheap) filters and high-quality (expensive) ones. Needless to say, if you own a state-of-the-art lens, don’t look for the cheapest UV filter, alright?

General Cleaning Rules

Many people, including yours truly, can become a little bit OCD with keeping their gear as clean as a whistle, and by gear, I mean anything ranging from a brand-new Nikon mirrorless to a smartphone. Even if camera lenses are generally speaking durable and scratch-resistant, OCD cleaning is not recommended. Here are a few rules to prevent you from inflict damage on your camera lens:

First, avoid unnecessary cleaning. Even if glass is tough and durable, camera lenses usually employ extra layers/coatings (anti-reflex, anti-glare stuff), and those chemicals added on top of the glass itself will scratch relatively easy, especially if you’re doing it wrong.

The end goal of cleaning your camera lens and filters is to keep them free of dirt and fingerprints, and that can be prevented by avoiding repeated physical interaction, including obsessive cleaning and touching the lens.

It would be a great idea to always keep your camera stored in its bag, with the front/end caps always on, in order to keep your optics clean when you’re not using it. However, as soon as you’ll take your camera out and start shooting stuff, it will become dirty, this is a fact of life and you have to deal with it.

The next rule is that, well, dust happens. Everywhere you go there is dust, and it will get on and inside your lens. Even brand-new lenses may be shipped with dust trapped between the lens-elements, and keep in mind that lenses are made in incredibly clean factories, where dust is the enemy of the state.

However, in our particular case, dust is not the worst thing that can happen to your camera, as in a few specs of dust on or inside the lens are not the end of the world, because after all’s said and done, they will have basically no effect on overall image quality. Read the last phrase twice, it is important.

Why? If you become obsessed with removing the last dust particle (which is impossible, really) from your lens, you are at risk at scratching its surface every time you try to clean the glass.

The next thing to remember is beware of rear smudges. Smudges are way more damaging to image quality than dust, and also harder to clean. Smudges on the rear element have the most dramatic impact on image quality, but it’s also true that the rear element is less susceptible to oil and dirt.

However, you must be extra-careful about this issue, and you must learn how to clean inside camera lens like a pro if you want to have a future in this business (just kidding for dramatic effect).

Perform a Dirt Test

To prevent unnecessary cleaning, always perform a dirt test. This is very simple, as it only takes four basic steps: first, set your camera to manual mode, set focus to infinity and increase your aperture; doing so will make it easy to identify dust when reviewing your images or looking through the viewfinder.

Then, take a photo of a plain surface; ideally speaking, you will get two pictures: one of a light-colored plain surface, and a second shot of a dark-colored surface. Step three, examine your photos and check the images for dust or hazy spots. Finally, inspect the camera’s rear element for any smudges or dust, and then look for mold inside your lens. If you find mold or traces of mold inside your lens, you should have it cleaned by a professional.

Cleaning Your Camera Lens

Now that we’ve decided your camera lens is filthy, it’s time to get to it. The first step would be to go buy a full lens cleaning kit, and rest assured, they are not expensive. Here’s what a proper kit should contain (bare minimum): lens blower, lens brush, cleaning tissue and/or cloth, cleaning fluid and an optional carbon sponge.

Once you have the kit ready for action, remember the mission: to remove dirt/grime/grease/dust without damaging the lens, so be patient and do it properly.

Step one

Remove loose debris and dust by using the lens blower. Keep in mind that the lens blower is one of the safest methods to clean your lens, and most of the time, you’ll never require a second step. For best results, give it a few jets before you put it to the lens, to make sure it’s clean, and hold the blower very close to the lens, but without touching it. Don’t be a cheapskate and blow on the lens with your mouth, ok? Also, don’t use air compressors, as they may drip onto the lens, and don’t go for the smallest (cheapest) air blower. Also, freon powered air cans are not recommended, as they may lead to condensation build-up.

Step two

If there’s more than dust on your lens, and/or the lens blower is not enough, use a lens brush to get rid of the grime. Camel hair lens brushes are probably the best in the business, as camel hair is soft yet thick enough to do a good job without damaging the lens. Be gentle when you brush, and remember to not touch the bristles with your fingers, okay?

Step three

When everything else fails, enter cleaning solutions. There are basically 2 ways you can clean a filthy camera lens: the cleaning fluid spray bottle and microfiber cloth/cleaning tissue, or, not so common, the carbon sponge.

Alcohol-based cleaners do a good job with cleaning smudges/fingerprints from lenses. Always use a small amount of fluid at a time, one drop or two, wiped with a cleaning tissue in a circular motion. Don’t apply the cleaning fluid on the lens, but on the tissue/cloth.

If you don’t want to introduce harsh fluids into the equation, you can breathe on your lens and then wipe the condensation with a high-quality microfiber cloth. If the mark is too difficult to remove, then you’ll have to go the way of cleaning fluids.

Here’s a video tutorial on how to clean a camera lens the right way.

Step four

This is the final step: wipe down the lens to remove excess grime or moisture. You can use a clean microfiber cloth, single-use lens cleaning tissues or pre-moistened lens cleaning wipes. Remember to start at the center and wipe in a circular motion.

The same cleaning procedure applies to the rear element of the camera, and while you’re at it, check out the outer edge of the lens too.

Finally, take care of the lens cap, look for dust and/or debris, and wipe it down every time you take care of the lens itself.

That’s the question that drives people since the first megapixel digital camera hit the market back in the stone age, in 1989 respectively, when Fujifilm released the legendary FUJIX DS-X, the first commercially available digital camera for the masses.

But we’re digressing. The absolute truth of marketing is that tech companies, just like the automotive industry, love to wave fancy-sounding words and big numbers in their ads. Obviously, digital camera manufactures are pretty good at this too; even if the buzzword megapixel is not obsessively used nowadays, at least as bad as it was back in 2015 for example, it’s still a metric for a lot of “noobs” seeking for the ultimate high-tech thrill.

Back in the day, a digital camera only had something like 1.2 megapixels, which is now normal for a low-end laptop webcam. “In the current year”, a premium smartphone or consumer-level DSLR has something like 15 megapixels or more. For example, the “ancient” (2013) Nokia Lumia 1020 boasted 41 megapixels stuffed inside its relatively tiny body.

Does it mean it can compete to a DSLR camera? If not, are megapixels just an urban myth? Okay then, let’s be smart and define the terms first.

Image Source: Cashify

What Does Megapixels Mean?

To make it really simple for non-tech savvy readers, the megapixel rating will give you the total number of pixels captured by the camera’s sensor. See, a digital picture is composed of thousands and thousands of little dots, also known as pixels, and to get the total number of pixels, you multiply the number of horizontal pixels by vertical pixels.

That’s pretty easy, right? One million pixels equal 1 megapixel, which means a 15-megapixel sensor will produce an image composed of 15 million pixels or tiny dots. However, the number of pixels is not the only metric for evaluating the quality of a camera sensor. Size also comes into play; do you remember the “bigger, better, faster, more” thing in the preamble?

The bigger the sensor (and the lens by the way, bigger is almost always better, go ask your girlfriend), the more light it can absorb, and that translates into generally better pictures, regardless of the megapixel count. That’s why a15 megapixel DSLR will provide you better pictures than a 20 megapixels smartphone. Bigger sensor, bigger (and better) lens, faster shutter speed and so on and so forth.

This is important to understand, especially if you’re shopping for the best digital camera, and you compare two devices with different megapixel counts, but similar sensor and lens sizes. Which brings us to the next issue.

Why More Megapixels Is Better

As we already explained, a digital image is made of millions of pixels. Now, professional-quality photos are printed generally speaking at 300 dpi, or dots (pixels) per inch. The higher the resolution of a given camera, the better, as in you will be able to make larger prints. This is an obvious advantage of a sensor with more megapixels, as it produces a greater amount of detail.

However, if the respective images are viewed on a tiny screen, such as a smartphone display or on your laptop, this metric may not matter much. The biggest impact of a higher megapixel count on a camera sensor is when you’re looking to actually print the respective images out. Before you ask, the 300-dpi thing is considered to be the best print resolution due to our own limitations.

See, the human eye can only see so much detail at a standard viewing distance, and 300 dpi is the best we can do. The lesson to be taken home is that if you require large prints, you’ll have to choose a very high megapixel sensor. As in, high megapixel sensors are ideal for studio or fashion photographers who want to capture every single detail, and to print larger photos.

As an interesting factoid, back in the day, Apple proved that you can actually make billboards from 12MP smartphone images. So, there you have it.

Image Source: Dailybillboardblog

Finally, high megapixel sensors are great if you’re going to use the “digital zoom” thing often, i.e. you’ll end up with a high level of detail when you’re “zooming in” stuff.

When High Megapixel Sensors Suck

The main disadvantage of having a camera with lots of megapixels is that the image file size will be rather large, so you’ll require more storage space and more processing power to edit the images properly.

Another thing to contemplate is that the more pixels you have onto a camera sensor, the less light the respective sensor will see for each pixel due to “crowding”. And that translates into less performance when taking pictures/videos in low-light conditions.

In bright light, a high megapixel sensor, let’s say s 15 MP variety, will do better than an 8 MP one, but in low lighting conditions, the latter will generally deliver more detailed pictures. To drive it home, always remember that low light performance is generally better with low-res sensors.

Also, if you’re shooting a video, a lower resolution sensor will translate into faster image processing i.e. more FPS (frames per second).

What Is the Sweet Spot Then?

Okay, so what have we learned so far? The main thing to remember is that modern cameras and smartphones are designed to have enough megapixels for basically anything you want to throw at them. The megapixel metric is no longer the “deal-breaker” that once was, and as soon as you go beyond a certain threshold, let’s say 12 MP, other factors become more important, like sensor size, as we already explained.

A 12 MP sensor in a premium smartphone will allow you to get an image which is big enough for basically anything (we’re not talking movie editing here), while a 24 MP DSLR is more than enough for most of you reading this article. Okay, full frame DSLRs have very big sensors, which can handle more megapixels, so you can buy super-high res 50 MP cameras, but those are niche tools for specialists.

The point being, you don’t need a huge MP rating to make awesome photos for Instagram, so we would advise you to not buy into the megapixel hype; look at other factors, like lens quality, the autofocus parameters, the technology behind the sensor (very important in stand-alone cameras) and things of that nature. All these factors are important in how your device works, so always look further than just megapixels.

Final word

The lesson to be taken home is this: it all depends on what kind of tool you require for your specific needs. If you’re a Facebook/Instagram kind of photographer, you don’t really need a super-high megapixel camera, or to spend thousands of dollars on a whim.

On the other hand, if you’re going to shoot commercial and fashion photography, including architecture, landscape and things of that nature, it’s the other way around. Basically, if you’re making money with your camera, it makes total sense to go full Godzilla.

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	Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV with 0.03 Second Auto-Focus & 25x Optical Zoom (DSC-RX10M4), Black	Check at Amazon
	Panasonic LUMIX FZ1000 II 20.1MP Digital Camera, 16x 25-400mm LEICA DC Lens, 4K Video, Optical Image...	Check at Amazon
	Nikon COOLPIX P1000 16.7 Digital Camera with 3.2" LCD, Black	Check at Amazon
	Canon Powershot SX70 20.3MP Digital Camera 65x Optical Zoom Lens 4K Video 3-inch LCD Tilt Screen...	Check at Amazon
	Panasonic LUMIX FZ80 4K Digital Camera, 18.1 Megapixel Video Camera, 60X Zoom DC VARIO 20-1200mm...	Check at Amazon
	Nikon COOLPIX P950	Check at Amazon

Last update on 2023-10-03 // The links above are affiliate // Images from Amazon

How to Choose the Best Bridge Camera

When deciding on the best bridge camera, you should focus on the following characteristics:

Sensor size

Although it isn’t predetermined, a larger sensor size usually means a better overall image quality. In other words, if you want most for your money, the larger-sized sensors should certainly be your preferred choice.

Have in mind that the bridge cameras sensors aren’t as large as the best DSLR camera sensors; however, they still provide fairly decent image quality that should satisfy the vast majority of users.

Lens

Depending on what you plan to do with your bridge camera, you need to choose the one with an adequate lens. If, for instance, you want to observe wildlife, larger-sized lenses that are above 1500mm should be your main option; if, on the other hand, you need the camera only for everyday photography, lenses that are bellow that numbers would certainly be a more preferable option.

Connectivity

More connectivity options usually give you better overall versatility and usability of the device and bridge cameras are no exception. Don’t be satisfied with only one connectivity option and seek the devices with as many connectivity options as possible.

Best Bridge Cameras

Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV

An All-Mighty Bridge Camera

Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV is an amazing piece of equipment that, delivers premium performance, worth the best bridge cameras, thanks to the excellent quality of the components implemented.

Although a bit pricey, this camera fully justifies it, mostly thanks to features such as super-fast AF that needs only 0.03 seconds to work, as well as 315 point phase-detection and 24fps burst shooting that can be done with the AF and auto-exposure turned on. In other words, this camera is serious stuff, able to deliver top-class footage, with impressive dynamic range and very sharp and detailed image in both photos and videos that can be captured in 4K.

The key reasons for such a great performance are hidden inside it and include 20.1MP 1″ Exmor RS CMOS sensor and ZEISS Vario-Sonnar T* 24-600mm ultra-zoom lens, as well as excellent Sony engineers who obviously know what they’re doing.

Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV offers very good connectivity that includes Bluetooth, NFC, and Wi-Fi connection and provides great versatility that allows its easy pairing with both Android and iOS devices. Moreover, it comes fitted with a bright and sharp electronic viewfinder and altogether presents a pretty good upgrade of its lookalike predecessor RX10 III.

In other words, if you want a high-quality digital camera that will deliver nothing but excellent images, Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV is definitely the device for you.

PANASONIC LUMIX FZ1000 II

Excellent Versatility in a More Budget-Friendly Edition

If you are after a high-quality bridge camera, with excellent versatility and more than a reasonable price, PANASONIC LUMIX FZ1000 II is a camera as made for you.

This is a device that brings the value for your money and offers a pretty good list of features that will allow you to express your talent for photography in the best possible way. It is equipped with 20.1MP 1” BSI CMOS sensor and 16x optical Leica DC VARIO-ELMARIT lens that is equivalent to 25-400mm lenses, as well as 5-Axis Hybrid Optical Image Stabilizer that is the main reason for its excellent image quality.

Moreover, this camera allows for 30fps 4K and 60fps 1080p video capture and supports 30fps burst shooting in special “4K Photo” mode, as well as 7fps burst shooting with, or 12fps burst shooting without AF, when in regular mode.

PANASONIC LUMIX FZ1000 II comes with a 49 point face/eye detection AF that needs only 0.09 seconds to do the job and provides good connectivity that includes Wi-Fi, NFC, and Bluetooth connection that guarantees for more than solid functionality.

All in all, this lightweight 808g camera has everything that you may need, and more importantly, it doesn’t cost a fortune. Therefore, if you are seeking the best budget bridge camera that certainly won’t disappoint you, PANASONIC LUMIX FZ1000 II seems like a pretty good option.

Nikon COOLPIX P1000

A Bridge Camera that Will Literally Take you to the Moon

Nikon COOLPIX P1000 is a specific camera that isn’t for everyone. It has a lot of good sides such as the utterly amazing 125x zoom that has no rivals in the class and will let you take photos of faraway objects, even moon craters, like they are placed on your front lawn and not located thousands and thousands of kilometers away. Moreover, it has an excellent optical stabilization that perfectly pairs with the zoom capabilities, decent build quality, and overall good performance.

However, this camera also comes with a few serious downsides that involve poor EN-EL20a lithium-ion battery that can handle only about 250 shots per charge, low burst speed of 7fps, as well as bulky design and not that great low-light performance.

On the other hand, this camera delivers very good 30fps 4K video capture; it offers RAW support and provides solid connectivity that involves USB2.0, Bluetooth 4.1 LE, and Wi-Fi connection.

Although its 3000mm lens significantly increases Nikon COOLPIX P1000’s performance, that can be hardly said about its modest 16MP BSI-CMOS sensor that delivers solid image quality but seems a bit inadequate for such a lens “power”.

In other words, Nikon COOLPIX P1000 is a mixture of both great and modest components and features that create a niche product that is perfect for observing and capturing distant scenes and objects, but not that great when it is used in everyday situations.

Overall, this device is fun to use and probably the best bridge camera for wildlife available on the market; however, if that isn’t really your deal you should certainly look for some other models that will be more adapted to your needs.

Canon Powershot SX70

A Solid Bridge Camera for the Price

If you are seeking a well-built and solid-performing bridge camera that won’t take too much money out of your pocket, Canon Powershot SX70 is a device made for you.

This camera comes fitted with a great 35mm (equivalent focal range of 21-1365mm) lens and excellent 65x optical zoom that will deliver everything that a wildlife observer and devotee might need. In contrast to Nikon COOLPIX P1000, this camera offers much better versatility, and other than wildlife observation, it can also be used for more mainstream stuff.

Canon Powershot SX70 comes with a 20.3MP CMOS sensor and high-resolution EVF; it offers both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity and altogether presents a very good bridge camera package.

Moreover, it supports 10fps burst shooting, as well as 30fps 4K video recording along with 60fps and 120fps 1080p recording. Also, this camera is compatible with Android and iOS-based devices and delivers RAW file support. All in all, a pretty good deal if you are looking for the best bridge camera at a more likable price.

Panasonic Lumix FZ80

Affordability and Great Versatility in One

Panasonic Lumix FZ80 is a budget-friendly bridge camera that incorporates all the right parts of the puzzle, making this device one hell of a deal.

With this camera, you are getting a great 60x zoom, excellent DC VARIO 20-1200mm Lens, and a solid 18.1MP sensor. More importantly, you can count on excellent image quality and great low-light performing bridge camera, for a rather small amount of money.

In other words, if you are looking for the best budget bridge or low light camera, you may be sure that this is the device that you are seeking. RAW file support, 30fps 4K video capture, sharp 1,170K dot viewfinder, good connectivity that includes micro USB and micro HDMI ports, as well as Wi-Fi connection, are just a fraction of features that this camera brings.

There is also very fast autofocus, 10fps burst shooting, literally everything that a bridge camera enthusiast might need. Therefore, if a great versatility and budget-friendly price are the key characteristics that you are looking in your new camera, Panasonic Lumix FZ80 is one hell of a choice without a doubt.

Nikon COOLPIX P950

An Excellent, Feature-Rich Bridge Camera

Nikon COOLPIX P950 is an expensive, yet highly capable bridge camera that is fitted with the EXPEED Image Processor, 16MP CMOS sensor, and Dual Detect Optical VR. Equally importantly, it is equipped with a 2000mm zoom lens, 83X optical zoom, and 166X Dynamic Fine Zoom that altogether make a pretty good combination.

When you also add the excellent 5.5EV image stabilization and the 2359k-dot equivalent OLED viewfinder into the equation, the final result can be nothing else but sharp and clear images, as well as pretty good capture video quality. Nikon COOLPIX P950 is capable of capturing 30fps 4K videos, as well as 60fps, 30fps, and 25fps full HD videos. Moreover, it supports 7 fps continuous shooting, which isn’t much, yet should be enough for most users.

In addition, this camera also comes with a built-in Flash; ISO from 100 to 1600 (it can be extended to 6400), and both Wi-Fi and BT connectivity that should make your life much easier. Moreover, there is also a 3.2″ Vari-angle LCD screen, as well as a special Bird and Moon mode that will help you make wonderful pictures in that department. Furthermore, there is a decent Nikon EN-EL20a battery that doesn’t do wonders, yet should give you autonomy of some 290 shots.

To make things even better, there is also RAW imaging support and manual controls, which ultimately seals the deal and makes this camera a real jewel and one of the best bridge cameras you can find on the market.

Summary

If you’re ready to treat yourself with a new bridge camera, the best one for you is definitely on this list. Pay attention to details and first be sure about what you are planning to do with it – and then it should be a piece of cake to make that decision!

Of course, needing and buying the best monopod are two different things. In order to achieve that, you need to be familiar with monopods in general and know what to look for or use advice and suggestions of a guide like this one, that will save you time and help find the best monopod for your needs.

Top Picks

Preview	Product
	SIRUI P-326 6 Section Carbon Fiber Monopod	Check at Amazon
	Vanguard VEO 2S AM-264TR Monopod with Smart Phone Holder and Bluetooth Remote (VEO2SAM-264TR), Black	Check at Amazon
	IFOOTAGE Camera Monopod Professional 71" Aluminum Telescoping Video Monopods with Tripod Stand...	Check at Amazon
	Benro Aluminum 3 Series Flip-Lock Monopod w/ 3-Foot Articulating Base (A38FD)	Check at Amazon
	Monopod, COMAN KX3232 73.2 inch Professional Monopod Tripod Lightweight Aluminum Telescopic Camera...	Check at Amazon
	Amazon Basics 67-Inch Monopod, Black	Check at Amazon
	Manfrotto Video Monopod XPRO+, Camera and Video Support Rod with Video Head, 4-Section in Aluminium...	Check at Amazon

Last update on 2023-09-27 // The links above are affiliate // Images from Amazon

How to choose the best monopod

When choosing the best monopod, pay closer attention to these characteristics:

Height

One of the most important monopod characteristics is definitely its height. The higher it is, the better capabilities and greater versatility you have. Therefore, keep an eye on that when choosing the best monopod.

Weight capacity

Similar to height, weight capacity plays a highly important role when talking about a monopod’s overall quality. Not having enough capacity will limit the sort of equipment you may use and affect the monopod’s versatility.

For that reason, be sure that the chosen accessory has as much capacity possible and that it can hold at least a few kilograms on top of it.

Mounting

The last thing you need in your life is to spend a bunch of money on something you can’t use. Do your homework and check your camera’s mount type, and choose the monopod that complies with those standards.

Best Monopods

SIRUI P-326 Monopod

A Great Monopod for Both Professionals and Enthusiasts

SIRUI P-326 is a compact, well-constructed and very sturdy six sections carbon fiber monopod that is ideal for use on a variety of surfaces, including ice and grass. Moreover, it is affordable and offers a very good value for the money, which makes it a great solution for a large base of users, even professionals.

This is a lightweight accessory that weighs only 400 g and, when fully retracted, has a height bellow 39.5cm – the perfect characteristics if you are after the best travel monopod. On the other hand, this monopod can be extended up to 1.56m and can hold up to 10 kg of weight. In other words, this is serious stuff, ladies and gentlemen, not a toy.

SIRUI P-326 comes with a rubberized foot, as well as a retractable steel spike that gives it additional stability on tricky surfaces like ice, and is fitted with removable wrist strap, carabiner clip, and a compass – not essentials, but may be handy for many people.

More importantly, this monopod is equipped with silicon twist-lock mechanism that enhances its durability and reversible mounting screw (1/4″-20 & 3/8″-16) that allows you to use it with a whole bunch of different devices, including the DSLR, vlogging and other camera types.

All in all, if you are after a highly capable, but not too expensive monopod, SIRUI P-326 definitely comes as one of the better deals out there.

Vanguard VEO 2S AM-264TR

A High-Quality, Feature-Rich Monopod

If you are into photography, especially action photography, you need a high-quality, easy-to-use monopod, and Vanguard VEO 2S AM-264TR is exactly that type of device. This monopod offers plenty of features and more importantly, delivers much-needed stability.

Vanguard VEO 2S AM-264TR is a compact 26mm monopod, with weight of only 890 grams and the ability to withstand up to 6kg of weight. It is made out of four aluminum sections that allow its height to be adjusted between 54.6cm (when folded), up to 162.5cm, when fully extended.

This monopod features a lightweight build and offers angle adjustment, fixed or pivoting base options, as well as a practical smartphone connector. In addition, there is also a Bluetooth remote, included in the package, and a twist-type leg lock that guarantees stable use.

In other words, Vanguard VEO 2S AM-264TR has everything needed for good quality photos and videos; therefore, if you are after the best monopod available, for your brand new compact camera this one is pretty much it.

IFOOTAGE Video Monopod Professional 71″

Excellent Monopod for Professionals and Amateurs Alike

If you’re looking for a design-award winning monopod for your DSLR, the IFOOTAGE Video Monopod Professional would make for the sensible choice. Retailing for less than $200, this monopod is specially designed for easy operation, and it’s built to last. Also, the IFOOTAGE is versatile and the 4-section design translates into flexibility in use.

The quick-release plate and removable tripod stand allow you to configure the monopod in three different ways: fixed video with adjustable feet, portable, and low angle camera pod, which is the most versatile of the bunch.

Moreover, the monopod has a telescopic design, and it can be extended from 5.3 inches to 71 inches, while the aluminum construction is strong enough to accommodate all SLR, DSLR, Video Cameras plus Camcorders up to 17 lbs.

Bottom line, the IFOOTAGE Video Monopod Professional is excellent if you’re a professional filmmaker, or a nature/landscape photographer, not to mention “casual” use, such as weddings, events, amateur video/photography and so on and so forth.

Benro A38FD

A High-Quality Product in a More Affordable Package

Benro A38FD is a good-quality product that offers great stability and durability and more importantly, it provides reliable performance. It is well-priced and delivers everything that a regular monopod user might need.

On top of that, it is fitted with a very convincing three-year warranty and more importantly, it is built to withstand up to 18 kg of weight and supplied with 1/4″-20 and 3/8″-16 mounting screw, and this allows it to easily cope with all sorts of equipment.

Benro A38FD monopod is built out of aluminum and comes along with a three-leg base and a twist-lock mechanism that delivers great stability and provides ease of use. Due to its small weight of only 950 g, this four-section monopod is highly portable and, together with the ability to be extended to up to 1.55m, offers great usability.

In other words, if you are after a monopod that is a head to head with the best monopods, but costs less, Benro A38FD is certainly one of the more satisfying choices out there.

COMAN KX3232

A Perfect Monopod for the Money

COMAN KX3232 is a great accessory that will perfectly fit anybody looking for a sturdy, high-quality monopod with legs. Due to its premium build quality and a long list of features, this accessory is comparable with the best monopods available, such as Manfrotto monopods; however, it costs less, which ultimately makes it a better deal.

To begin with, COMAN KX3232 can hold up to 6 kg of equipment and can be extended to up to 1.85 m, which is highly respectable, especially considering the height. Moreover, due to its ball joint, it allows for 360° panning and 45° tilting in any direction, while its 90° drop-notch makes it easy to switch from portrait to landscape mode, making this monopod a highly versatile and practical tool.

COMAN KX3232 weights 1.76 kg and, when fully retracted, has a height of 66 cm. It consists of five sections and is fitted with a removable tripod that can be used combined with the base unit, or separately, as a mini tripod. Also, this monopod is equipped with a tilt and pan lock and is an ideal option for a variety of devices, like SLR and DSLR cameras, video cameras, etc.

Altogether, COMAN KX3232 is a high-quality product and one of the best monopods with feet out there. Therefore, if that is what you are searching for, don’t hesitate, you surely won’t be disappointed.

AmazonBasics 67-Inch Monopod

A Highly Functional and Super-cheap Monopod

AmazonBasics 67-Inch Monopod is an accessory that continues Amazon’s tradition of creating highly affordable and very functional products that are, on the other hand, deprived of more advanced features.

To begin with, this monopod is easy to use and with its 450 g presents one of more lightweight options out there. When fully retracted its height is 53 cm, which is decent. Nevertheless, it is not impressive, considering that, for instance, Manfrotto MMCOMPACT-BK is 39 cm long, when fully folded.

On the other hand, AmazonBasics 67-Inch Monopod can be expanded at up to 1.7 m, as its name suggests, which is highly respectable, while its ability to hold up to 3kg of weight won’t excite you, but will do the job.

AmazonBasics 67-Inch Monopod comes in a package along with a carrying bag, it is equipped with adjustable wrist strap, as well as retractable spikes and is fitted with 1/4″-20 mounting screw that makes it a very good deal altogether.

All in all, if you are a more budget-oriented user looking for a monopod, with a decent level of quality, AmazonBasics 67-Inch Monopod will definitely be among the best choices available on the market.

Manfrotto Xpro MVMXPRO500US

Excellent Quality and Great Height Capabilities in One

If you are looking for the best monopod for DSLR camera that offers great height and smooth performance at the same time, Manfrotto Xpro Aluminum Video Monopod MVMXPRO500US is the ideal option for you.

This is an aluminum-built, four-section monopod that offers great durability, good stability, and overall ease of use. Unfortunately, it is a bit expensive. However, quality usually costs extra money and this “fellow” is no exception to that.

Manfrotto Xpro Aluminum Video Monopod MVMXPRO500US has a height of 77 cm when folded, which is rather long for a monopod. Nevertheless, when you see that its maximum height is the staggering 2 m, suddenly everything has more sense.

When talking about other aspects of this tool, have in mind that it is equipped with 1/4″-20 and 3/8″-16 mounting screw and that can hold up to 5 kg of weight, which is more than enough for the majority of equipment.

On the other hand, its weight of 2.1 kg makes it not that practical for carrying around. However, have in mind that this isn’t its primary role in the first place – it is meant to be a highly versatile and smooth performing monopod that guarantees excellent video and image quality.

To make a long story short, if you are after the best monopod for video out there and one of the best monopods in general, Manfrotto Xpro Aluminum Video Monopod MVMXPRO500US is surely the accessory that will give you everything you need and much more.

Summary

If you are ready to make awesome photos and videos, a monopod is a great piece of equipment you should have. It will make it easier and more comfortable, while they are usually lightweight and offer great versatility. Simply put, it’s a must!